Hello, DIYers! It’s time to make some quality stuff! So, let us give you some advice. As you probably know, a ballet barre can be single row (with a single handrail) or double row (see above for single and below for double or read on The Home Dweller website). The second handrail on the double barre is usually fixed and best suited for specialized gyms only.
For home exercises, a mobile “one story” barre is usually the best option. And, unless you have a good home improvement store nearby to make this kind of a ballet barre, you may want to know how it’s made DIY-style.
How to make a ballet barre?
Option 1: Mobile “one story” ballet barre.
You will need section steel of three types (2 with a square cross section and 1 with rectangular). Choose the thickest steel for weight and the ability to cut threads.
Here are some steps to follow.
- Grind all the blanks with a cup grinder using an electric drill. Rinse them in the water and dry in the sun. Next – thin leather rubbing. Rinse in the water again. After drying, cover the blanks with a rust solvent; in 24 hours, a strong sulfate film should form. Then wash with water again.
- Cut out the lines on the blanks for the sliding (rising/lowering) part of the stands.
- Make threaded holes in the fixed parts for height adjustment. The backs of old office chairs with M8 thread are perfect as fixers. You will only need 2 fixers .
- Use 2 transverse (L-600 mm) and 4 (L-250 mm) longitudinal shape sections on 8 supports to make the lower part of the stand. To do this, make 8 threaded holes at the ends of the 4 longitudinal sections of the shape.
- To cover the ends of the longitudinal segments, mill 8 plastic plugs.
- Cut 8 pillars with grooves on the ends and paste rubber washers in them. Cut M8 threads on the shanks.
- Сut a piece of stainless steel pipe in two and make ‘saddles’ for a wooden beam. Fasten with 2 long pins. The pin is passed inside the movable part of the rack, and a square washer is used on the bottom. Screw on a nut on its protruding end and tightly press the saddle to the upper end of the movable part of the support. Use a half-round file to make dimples at the ends along the saddles’ shape.
- The next stage is welding. This includes cleaning and filling too. An accurate and reliable fixation of workpieces in place is really important, as well as quick welding to avoid overheating the parts and damaging them. Pay attention to the previously prepared technological holes that may become invisible after assembly.
- Painting. Use primer of the finished racks and then ese hammer enamel with silicone additive in a spray.
- When the paint dries, keep the ballet barre in your workshop for 24 hours. Then let it stay in the sun for a day.
Option 2: Fixed “wall-floor” ballet barre.
Again, be sure to take your time and make all the necessary markings and measurements.
- According to the calculated height level, places on the wall are marked. That is where the ballet barre will be mounted. The holes in the wall then shall be perforated according to those marked points (4 on each stand).
- The dowels are then screwed into the holes and the stands themselves are mounted. The bar is inserted into the holders. If you are using a pipe instead of wood, you will need to insert the plugs in it.
- The most reliable fixation is considered both in the ground and in the wall. If the walls are unreliable and the equipment is attached only to the floor, the racks may loosen in time and get uncomfortable for the exercises.
What is the proper height for a ballet barre?
- The handrail must be at the same level where the lowest rib of a dancer
- Upper – 1100 мм off the floor.
- Lower – 750 мм off the floor.
- The distance between the racks – 2 meters.
What is the right diameter of a ballet barre handrail?
- Standard handrail diameter is 40–50 mm.
The handrail should be of solid wood (beech, larch or oak) and not coated with varnish or any other chemical composition since the hand sweat is supposed to be absorbed by the handrail. This allows hands to stay dry and helps avoid injuries.
How long should a ballet barre handrail be?
- The handrail may be of different lengths, but the standard is 5–2 meters.
The handrail should not be coated with varnish or other chemical composition (that allegedly helps avoid aging).
How far from the wall should a ballet barre be?
- The distance from the wall is 325 mm.
The barre can stretch along the entire wall or be cut off to a smaller size. In the first case, the handrails of the ballet barre are connected in the brackets couplings; in the second, one of the handrail ends is sawn off, and the racks are installed closer to each other.
You may also need:
- 2 wall arms – pipes 25.4×1.5 mm.
- 8 supports – 38 mm pipe or 50.8 with 1.5 mm pipe wall.
- Supports and wall arms (fasteners) should be of polished stainless steel.
Tips and recommendations
- Price and quality. No cheap parts!
- Environmentally friendly. Chinese models usually contain easily volatile inclusions, which, in conditions of a closed room and strenuous activities, can easily poison you.
- We strongly recommend making ballet barres with the densest and load-resistant fasteners. The “wall-floor” type is the most reliable and stable. The construction of the racks is fixed at two points with wedge anchors 12×100 mm – barres with strong external influences will last a long time.
- If you have solid (brick or concrete) walls in your apartment and expensive flooring (genuine wood parquet), a ballet barre can only be installed in the walls.
- The technology by which handrails should be made is glued laminated wood, standard drying by milling and turning followed by polishing.
We would also recommend watching this video to see more tricks to make the building process easier.
DIY the best way possible, and good luck with your future ideas!